3200 Knock Sensor

Nick B

Junior Member
Messages
74
Hi all,

I have code P0331 - Knock Sensor Circuit 2 Range/Performance (appeared shortly after I changed the thermostat so I think some coolant must have splashed onto it...)

Does anyone know where the (bank 2?) knock sensor is located? Are both knock sensors together in the bottom of the V near the starter?
Is it easy enough to change yourself with the inlet removed?

I assume best practise would be to change both sensors while you're in there? Anything else to look at?
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,823
I would change them both, when you get into them you will realise that its a job you don't want to do too often. i replaced both knock sensors, the intake plenum bolts, replaced the plenum gasket and replaced screws with loctite (check these screws are tight even if you don't replace the seal, i also replaced the starter and the water hoses, as the same time. Touch wood not had problems since.
 

Nick B

Junior Member
Messages
74
Thanks guys, I may well swap the starter motor too as it can take quite a few turns before actually starting, especially when hot (or is that normal?)

Really kicking myself that I may have gotten coolant onto it as I tried my best to get it away from the engine as much as possible into my drain pan, I even covered parts up with an old towel...

That said I've just taken it on a fairly long run getting it up to temperature and the code hasn't come back and it sounds a lot better so I'm hoping it's dried out a bit and sorted itself but I guess time will tell
 

SteveM

Member
Messages
541
One thing to watch if you do it yourself is the very low torque setting for tightening the knock sensors - apparently if you over tighten you can damage the new knock sensors. Also remember to individually label the 4 small pipe's positions at the back of the plenum as I can guarantee you wont know which goes where when you come to refit. Also make sure you tighten pipe under plenum that leads to break servo - really needs someone else to hold manifold up to disconnect and then retighten pipe on reassembly.
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
How olds the car Nick...as these sensors and lots of others are not designed to last forever!

I changed all the sensors including the Lambda on mine whether it needed it or not, as the car was 11 year's old at the time

I've never had any problems..

Dave
 

Nick B

Junior Member
Messages
74
About 12 and a half years now as it was one of the last 2002 models, not sure if they were changed in the past

Thankfullly the code hasn't come back in over a week now so I think it must have been either a coincidence or a tiny amount of water that got onto the sensor which has now dried up :)

I'll remember to get these changed when the starter is changed in any case, thanks for the help guys
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
We have to remember these are old cars now, many of the electronic components are lived...80k and 10 years and your pushing your luck..

It's the same for any marque out there,they were never designed to last over five or six years!

Dave
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,630
Also when you have the plenum off flip it over and remove all the screws in the belly pan cover and locktite them in, these have a habit of falling out and then the air leak causes the car to idle at 2000 rpm

The starter motor is a Citroen part and can be had new for about £90, not the £400 Maserati want for it. You just have to swap over the front plate, do a search on here for the part number.
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,823
There is a very good Bosch starter which with minor modifications fits no problem, i fitted it to my car and it starts much faster now, and i have had no trouble in 3 years since fitting.
 

Boomerang_GT

Member
Messages
203
One thing to watch if you do it yourself is the very low torque setting for tightening the knock sensors - apparently if you over tighten you can damage the new knock sensors. Also remember to individually label the 4 small pipe's positions at the back of the plenum as I can guarantee you wont know which goes where when you come to refit. Also make sure you tighten pipe under plenum that leads to break servo - really needs someone else to hold manifold up to disconnect and then retighten pipe on reassembly.
Hi guys!
I'm about to change my 2 knock sensors, or pinging sensors how the manual calls them, today.
But I could not find any details regarding the tightening torque. Or is it just the advise not to over-tighten them?
I could at least try to see how tight they were when I unscrew them but would be happier if someone had the torque.
Thanks!
 

RSM Masser

Member
Messages
2,437
The knock sensors are not tight, just ‘nipped'
Definitely recommend changing the starter motor - it's c£80 delivered for the Bosch part, change the grey metal housing for the original - it's four long bolts and it fits and works a dream. Vast improvement on the collection of parts I left at Brands Hatch one year.
Also needed are the 8 O rings for the water manifold, swap the short flex hoses for silicone (buy a metre length for £5 oneBay 32mm inside diameter from memory) have some spare Allen bolts for the air intake manifold. Change the two hoses at the rear of the water manifold as well.
It sounds a lot but really it is not that difficult just time consuming. One of the starter motor bolts is an 1/8 of a turn until it's undone.
 

Boomerang_GT

Member
Messages
203
Thank you so much! These are the most valuable hints you gave me!
Unfortunately it might be too late for the Bosch starter swap :( I always planned to change the Valeo for a reliable Bosch part since I dislike and don't trust Valeo after all 2 Alternators that cost 600€ each broke on my Audi after only 160tkm per and my used Bosch alternator with unknown but high mileage works perfectly fine.
Anyway I just noticed that the knock sensor under the starter won't come out without removing it.
Also found the typical picture with a pond of Paraflu, oil, leaves and dirt all in the middle of the V. I don't even know if the knock sensors were faulty but having 2 new gives me confidence ;)
Of course I already have a set of hoses to replace them all :)
Now I will try to find a Bosch starter in Vienna...
 

SteveM

Member
Messages
541
I agree with RSM - don't over tighten the sensor bolts. Its in the manual somewhere but least where you would expect to find it. I seem to recall about 5Nm. Also dont forget to label the location of the 4 pipes at back of inlet manifold - when you come to put them back you will have forgotten which one goes where. You will also need someone to help you hold inlet manifold up while you undo brake vacuum pipe and similarly when you re-install - you really dont want that coming off! Good luck
 

Boomerang_GT

Member
Messages
203
Yeees, you are so right!! :)
These small vacuumhoses gave me a nightmare when I took of the manifold and I heard one metal clip falling down, I thought it fell directly into the valves. But luckily it was lying on the block.
Have noch clue which one goes where :D

Just one question regarding the naked Bosch starter without the aluminum housing. I could only find the complete starter
for about 180€
Would anybody have a source of the 80€ Bosch part?
Thanks!
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
Thank you so much! These are the most valuable hints you gave me!
Unfortunately it might be too late for the Bosch starter swap :( I always planned to change the Valeo for a reliable Bosch part since I dislike and don't trust Valeo after all 2 Alternators that cost 600€ each broke on my Audi after only 160tkm per and my used Bosch alternator with unknown but high mileage works perfectly fine.
Anyway I just noticed that the knock sensor under the starter won't come out without removing it.
Also found the typical picture with a pond of Paraflu, oil, leaves and dirt all in the middle of the V. I don't even know if the knock sensors were faulty but having 2 new gives me confidence ;)
Of course I already have a set of hoses to replace them all :)
Now I will try to find a Bosch starter in Vienna...

Bosch or Valeo it makes no difference nowadays.. the problem in the old days was when the field coils were glued on to the outer body of the starter motor, when they got hot over time the glue failed and jammed the coils to the armature, the whole thing then destroyed its self

Nowadays on new starter motors the field coils are clipped into place and never fail


Dave
 

RSM Masser

Member
Messages
2,437
This was mine when I took it apart
8B80C27F-E14F-4C6B-A843-DC93DEDB9800.jpg

And this is the new one I bought - you can see the bit that needs to be swapped over, it’s as simple as undoing 4 torx head bolts and swapping the casting

4DF71FEA-79E7-4AD8-AD27-07139EE5DCF2.jpg

The part is from a Peugeot I think so should be easily available overseas do a search on here for alternative parts and google the part number.
 

Boomerang_GT

Member
Messages
203
A46FC334-2959-4EC5-B0C7-2528C80B5680.jpgI was happy to get an original Bosch starter today just to find out the one in my car is from 2014, so not more than 5000 Kilometers old :(
Paid 205€ for it.
Not sure what I should do now.
Maybe even the knock sensors might be new.