Central locking problem - will not lock using remote

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
That's useful info, Chris. Thanks.
I'll have a look at mine this weekend hopefully. Can the micro-switches be purchased easily? Maplins etc? Is there any soldering etc. to do? Sorry, I'm not very well-versed with electrics!

The ones I've seen should indeed by available from Maplins. The internal handle one on mine was riveted in place, I recall, but looking at the Eurospares site, it's sold separately so a drill and re-rivet / bolt+threadlock should be good.

External switches also appear to be available separately (only £98!) so must also be amenable to removal.

You'd need to remove the flying lead and connector and replace, or source new.

Easy enough if you're handy. If you're not, and you have some variance on time I could do it, but would probably want your external handle for building / testing purposes for some time (week maybe)

C
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
If you unlock using the key rather than the remote and when you turn the key keep it turned in the unlock position for a few seconds, does your window drop then? Mine does.

I haven't tried. Will try tonight and report back.

The ones I've seen should indeed by available from Maplins. The internal handle one on mine was riveted in place, I recall, but looking at the Eurospares site, it's sold separately so a drill and re-rivet / bolt+threadlock should be good.

External switches also appear to be available separately (only £98!) so must also be amenable to removal.

You'd need to remove the flying lead and connector and replace, or source new.

Easy enough if you're handy. If you're not, and you have some variance on time I could do it, but would probably want your external handle for building / testing purposes for some time (week maybe)

Thanks again, Chris. I'll take it apart, hopefully at the weekend, and investigate if it's within my basic ability!
 

davidhowson

Junior Member
Messages
474
Next chapter…

I stripped the door again and disconnected the driver's door lock, but before I took to the task of replacing the lock, I thought I would just plug the new lock in to the system to test it. And guess what, same problem!
Door will unlock on the remote but not lock.
So, I too the new lock and bench tested the connections using an external 12v supply, and it works fine. 12v one way unlocks and 12v reversed polarity locks it again.
So I traced the wires through the door and off into the passenger foot well where the big green relay / control unit lives. All wires fine and tested for continuity.
I decided to disconnect the relay and stick 12v down the line to the old lock. And yes, you guessed it, the old lock works!
So, my next stage is to replace the relay (Number 184391) and badged as Ferrari. I've located one with Bill McGrath which should be with me tomorrow all being well.
I put the door all back together and I'm back to where I started.
My only concern is that the new relay doesn't fix it in which case I need to trace where the car receives the remote signal to see what messages it's sending to the car's electrics.

On a point with the locking solenoid, it's a complex animal, it takes signals from the passenger door to see if it's open, closed or locked likewise the boot lock. Then it mixes signals with the inside and outside door locks to tell the window to dip if the door latch is closed. Then there are the multiple mechanical inputs to lock, unlock and open from both inside and outside the car! So a lot is being asked of this little component. No wonder it's a @£$% to fit!

-David-
 

davidhowson

Junior Member
Messages
474
Flipping heck, replacing the central door locking control unit didn't work either!
The only part left is the passenger door lock. I think I will try stripping the door card off and plugging the new drivers door lock into the wires on that side to see if that sorts it out.
Otherwise, anyone any other ideas?
I know the key signal is getting into the car as it set / unsets the alarm system and it does at least unlock the car.
I'm quite sure the wires are all ok between the locks and the control unit as I can lock and unlock using the key from both doors and it triggers the central locking ok in all directions.
This is maddening!
-David-
 

davidhowson

Junior Member
Messages
474
I've now tried the new lock on the passenger door, again, same symptoms of can unlock using the remote or key, but can not lock using the remote only lock using the key in the lock.
So, no progress.
Does any one have access to the wiring diagram; I'm sure I used to have a copy but that was before we moved house!
-David-
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
Have you put a voltmeter on the relay output as you trigger the remote lock?

Should (I guess) read 12v

I saw you'd done some testing at the lock end, before replacing the relay, but not sure if you'd done that?

Also, you might want to test the output of the relay with the locks disconnected, in case one of them is causing a voltage drop (not likely)


C
 

RSM Masser

Member
Messages
2,437
It's a long shot but my 3200 was suffering similar issues, not unlocking, unlocking but not turning off alarm etc etc
Touch wood solved by replacing 2 x batteries in key at £1.99 each
I can unlock/ lock car from 50m away now.
No alarm sound though just flashing lights that's a different story
 

Rex B

Member
Messages
657
Hi David

If you PM me your email address I will send you the wiring diagram.

Rex B

Manual 3200
 

davidhowson

Junior Member
Messages
474
Having read through the diagrams, it looks like the window lift control box also has several control inputs to the door locking module (having been advised that it didn't!)
I'm going to pull this box out now and open it up to see if there's any obvious signs of trouble in there. The reason being, I had a significant amount of water get into the passenger footwell when someone decided to power wash the engine bay after it's 46k service (I was seriously not impressed as the garage concerned should have known better).
Please keep your fingers crossed for this one!!
-David-
 

tom27

New Member
Messages
66
hi David,
I get a similar issue when dealer back my car.
Nothing when i press the button but central locking work fine when i lock the door with the key.
I'm going directly to the fuse box : 3 or 4 fuse are necessary for the central loking system ( work with alarm system)
Just unplug 1 after 1, when you unplug the alarm system fuse you must hear the warning on.
After this , central locking are working good.
 

Tinman

New Member
Messages
176
Finally!
Hope this will solve my problem….just need to fit it now and given the door card will have to come again, it will have to wait until the weekend.
-David-
View attachment 20037

I'm experiencing the same problem. Was the issue on the drivers side and if so do you know the part number. I think you also mention in this thread that you were going to take pictures. Would you be able to PM them to me please. Thanks in advance
 

davidhowson

Junior Member
Messages
474
Hi
The latest on this one is ….. no progress!
I traced signals back through the window lift control module and that was fine, pulled it apart to check for any signs of damage and it was like new inside.
So, armed with the wiring diagram, I traced further upstream to the alarm system control module which lives behind the side panel of the near side back passenger seat.
I removed this and on the circuit board there's a single relay which can be heard to click on the unlock cycle but not a thing on the lock cycle. The alarm sets and unsets so I know this is receiving a signal from the key ok.
My final thought is that the relay on this module isn't switching over on the lock signal. The alarm control unit gives out a signal to set / unset the alarm and on another set of pins, it gives the lock / unlock command to the window lift control unit, which in turn gives the lock / unlock signal to the central door locking command module which sends the relevant signal to the door lock! Talk about complex.
Without access to a replacement alarm control module with paired keys, I'm now stuck.
So, if you are experiencing the same symptoms, I'm sorry to say you've probably got the same issue.
-David-
 

Tinman

New Member
Messages
176
I want to try an eliminate the solenoid as other threads have said that replacing the solenoid fixed the problem. If you have the part number it would be much appreciated
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
AH, David. Did I read that you have a *wiring* diagram!?

Would a copy be possible at all? Fees may be discussed!

C
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
Tinman. I had an issue with bouncing locks. The one you can hear thumping is probably the good one.

Left is 67294900
Right is 67294800

HTH

C
 

Tinman

New Member
Messages
176
Thanks Chris.
If I lock the car from the drivers side then it unlocks. Locking from the passenger side locks both doors. Given this scenario would you say that the passenger lock is faulty or the drivers?
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
Thanks Chris.
If I lock the car from the drivers side then it unlocks. Locking from the passenger side locks both doors. Given this scenario would you say that the passenger lock is faulty or the drivers?

I'd go with passenger side. The action of the key gives the solenoid that little bit of extra oomph to complete the action. Fortunately the locks are only about £20 a pop (however, no warranty is given or implied ;) ) They are a bit of a sod to fit, though. Not impossible, but you need to take time and patience. Some long nosed pliers would be very helpful as well.

C
 

Tinman

New Member
Messages
176
Another silly question, am I right in assuming that the right hand side is the passenger door (facing the car from the front)?
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
Another silly question, am I right in assuming that the right hand side is the passenger door (facing the car from the front)?

No.
Although you've got me wondering now.
I'm *sure* that left and right are from the driver's POV in the seat.

C