Alfa 33 Rebuild

dickyb

Member
Messages
432
Quick update:

Engine now running correctly and ready to be re-installed once engine bay repairs are complete:

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Chassis legs have now been straightened, factory strengthening braces installed and rust repaired.

Before (left side):

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After (left side):

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Step by step repairs (right side):

Replacement factory braces:

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Chassis leg cut open to install braces and tack welded back up (bracket on the right of the photo has also been cut off to address rust behind it:

photo 1 (2)i.jpg

Bracket re-attached and area behind primed with copper weld through primer:

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First phase of repairs is now pretty well complete, next week the repairs will be painted and a few small jobs completed in the engine bay. The bodyshop are hoping to be finished by Wednesday and with any luck the engine will be re-installed and car will be up and running and hopefully road legal by the following week :)
 

dickyb

Member
Messages
432
Just as it looks as though things are finally on the mend we uncover yet more problems.

The bodyshop have now discovered that the new cross-member fitted elsewhere is failing at the welds, as a result the entire front end of the car has had to stripped to gain access to repair it:

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Other repairs are progressing ok but its turned out to be a lot more work than originally planned so reassembly will be subject to further delays.

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Replacement doors/bonnet/bootlid are now all on their way but many issues to address with various parties with regard to this which I won't go into here.
 

dickyb

Member
Messages
432
Repairs nearly finished:

Seam sealant that was forgotten elsewhere has now been reinstated, repairs completed and entire engine bay repainted:

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photo 2 (3)i.jpg

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Next job is to reassemble everything in the engine bay, re-install the engine, bleed brakes/clutch, charge a/c and MOT. Should be up and running in the next week to 10 days. The second phase of repairs will then begin in the next couple of months, doors/bonnet/bootlid will be replaced and some other repairs will be made. There's nothing like completely restoring a car then doing it all over again shortly afterwards :)
 

dickyb

Member
Messages
432
Thanks for the comments, annoyingly the need for most of this extra work was unforeseen and the car should have been back on the road weeks ago.

We're really cooking now though, wiring/pipework etc re-installed into engine bay, almost ready for the engine to go back in....


photo 1 (4)i.jpg
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,594
Thanks for the comments, annoyingly the need for most of this extra work was unforeseen and the car should have been back on the road weeks ago.

We're really cooking now though, wiring/pipework etc re-installed into engine bay, almost ready for the engine to go back in....


View attachment 24586

Christ that was quick, 2 days ago it was in primer!...wiring back in already!
 

dickyb

Member
Messages
432
Hope you have a nice exhaust to go on it, my 33P4 sounded awesome with its autodelta exhaust!

Yep, I have a CSC crossover manifold and a fairly discrete CSC rear section, I chose the smaller of the two options so it wasn't too loud and didn't look too boy racer.

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G

Guest 1678

Guest
Yep, I have a CSC crossover manifold and a fairly discrete CSC rear section, I chose the smaller of the two options so it wasn't too loud and didn't look too boy racer.

View attachment 24636

View attachment 24637

Dicky - a balls-ache, but worth it.

I am just about to embark on the same journey. I have an Alfasud 1.5 TiX that will become the cash drain, as I start the same process in the coming weeks. I had a red Ti when 18 years old and never lost the bug for these little piles of Iron Oxide.

Your thread has inspired me.

Damon
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,594
I had starting problems with a 156 and it turned out to be the fuel pump relay.

Multiple electrical issues usually come back to earths.

It's not an immobiliser is it?

Stick with it mate your nearly there!
 

mjheathcote

Centenary Club
Messages
9,033
So frustrating for you.
Should be quite easy to check if you have power to the fuel pump relay rather than replace.
No spark is more tricky.
Its not an immobliser that has isolated these two circuits?

EDIT: Thinking along the same lines!