The NQ500 - My take on the North Coast 500

Corranga

Member
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1,223
The NQ500.

In the car world, here in the UK, the North Coast 500 seems to the to do thing. The 500, Route 500, NC500… well, here is my version, the Not Quite 500.

The plan was a simple one. A camping holiday with my family was planned.

7 or so years back my wife and I did a ‘Campaganza’ as we called it with group of fellow Lotus owners. We stayed at Gairloch, and the site was beautiful, right on a lovely beach, so that’s the destination. They go directly their via the A9 in my mother in law’s camper van. I leave a day before, and seek out some of Scotland’s finest roads. My return journey will be after 4 days at Gairloch.

The execution… what can I say other than, why didn’t I do this sooner!

Why the silly name?
Well, for those of you unfamiliar with the NC500, it’s this:
https://www.northcoast500.com/explore-the-route/

Living in Dundee, I enjoy close proximity to some fairly fantastic roads, so, excluding the initial 10 or so miles of dual carriageway, I think most of my route is notable, and worthy of a name. I think we have some members that live on or very close to part of the NC500 so I’ll apologise in advance if I offend with this… From advice I read online, I cut out the boring bits! That is to say, I barely touched the A9. I didn’t bother with John ‘O Groats, I can tick that box some other time!

The preparation should have been easier than it was. When I say my MIL has a camper, actually, she has a 1996 Mazda Bongo people carrier with a pop top - a day van, so much of the preparation was me fitting an electric hook up and leisure battery to the van, meaning I was still on my laptop downloading routes to my sat nav at 10.30 the night before I left.

When I finally got around to sorting the Maserati out, I had little time left. I had a feeling that the battery was weak. I’d taken a run out and the CTEK indicator wired to the battery (which flashes a small LED in red, amber, green, was amber on arrival, and red on departure. The car is always plugged into the CTEK conditioner, so I decided to leave it off a couple of nights, of course, it went dead! A new battery was ordered and lots of panic set in as it was delayed in transit, and arrived 2 days before I left! After night 1, it was amber again so I think it’s a drain on it, perhaps the tracker, though overnight seems a bit crazy. I took the conditioner and charger overnight off the camper hookup!

Anyway, I’m sure you don’t want to hear about all this, so let’s get to the important bit...

Day 1 - Dundee to the North Coast
Google says 7h45m - 284 miles.
This is the route:
https://goo.gl/maps/9NYjAUoPs972

For the starting location, I’ve used the last roundabout north of Dundee rather than my house!

Dundee - Glamis - Kirkton of Glenisla - Glenshee - Braemar - Grantown-On-Spey
Old reliable. My goto route when I have a spare afternoon on a sunny day. There is enough road to get the oil up to temperature before high revs. The short route from the A90 to Glamis is a lovely little road of sweeping bends, with a nice twisty section in the middle. Never fails to get you in the mood.

A couple of straight roads suffice to skip Kirriemuir, and I’m on my way through Glen Isla. The road is good, though narrow in places, and the surface isn’t amazing. It feels really remote, despite me only being 30 minutes or so from Dundee. Starting on a Sunday morning meant I reached the Glenshee road with only 1 car to overtake! Blissful!

The Glenshee road is as good as ever, the resurface of the southern park (in the last 2 or 3 years) probably benefitting the heavy Maserati as it’s pretty smooth now.

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On through Lecht, Tomintoul, Grantown-On-Spey, to finish off the bit I’m familiar with, both ski district roads would be definite candidates for making a top 10 roads in the UK list.

Cawdor Castle - Inverness - Beauly - Dingwall - Tain (Glenmorangie Distillery)
Onto uncharted territory, as it all is from here on in. I’ve been to Inverness before, but on this side of our Island, it’s as far north as I’ve ever been. I travel via Cawdor Castle to keep of the A9, and head to Beauly in-keeping with the start/end of the official NC500 route, though I’m not on it for long. Crossing Inverness isn’t fun, too much traffic, even around midday on a Sunday, but the car thermometer is reading 27 degrees and there isn’t a cloud in the sky, so I’m not complaining.

I turn off the A9 before the Cromarty Firth, but not too early to see the amazing sight of the lines of oil rigs that are berthed there. Beautiful in their own way, through the locals perhaps don’t agree!

I end up with 4 miles of almost but not quite single track road that wasn’t remotely enjoyable to get to the distillery, but never mind. The distillery is beautiful, the tours is, well, like all the other distillery tours, but I still enjoy them. Glenmorangie is the first malt I ever had, so it was great to see where it’s made.

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Bonar Bridge - Lairg - Altnahara - Forsinard - Armadale (B&B)
Back on the road, I’m heading towards Lairg. At some point around there, half of the road simply disappears. Single carriageway down to single track with passing places. I pass a Lamborghini Huracan Performante in grey (I think) which perhaps bodes well for the day!

65 or so miles of single track road later, I’m questioning my route a little :)

The road is relatively clear, and most drivers are courteous enough (or at least read the signs!) and pull over in a passing place to let faster traffic through. The exception is a group of 4 Belgians on bikes. 2 of them pass through a village, a 30 road with some traffic. I end up in the middle of their group. After 5 or so miles, I decide to let the other 2 pass, thinking that perhaps those up front are waiting for the other 2. Big mistake. I spend the next 20 miles behind 4 bikers travelling slower than I am. I get past as the 1st in the group for some reason stops in the middle of the road, blocking traffic from the other side so they can all turn right around Altnaharra - except there is no traffic to block, and he ends up dropping his bike! By this time, the 2 up front are maybe 300 yards up the road, and stop to look back, blocking the road (and me). They move and I carry on figuring between the 4 of them, they’ll manage to get the dropped bike up and started and on their way.

The rest of the journey is uneventful, but some of the single track would be better suited to my Elise rather than the bigger and heavier 4200, though sections, such as the bit passing

Mainland Britain's Most Remote Hotel, between Syre and Kinbrace and on to Forsinain is often well sighted, and passing places are frequent.

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When I reach the top, I take a right and head past Dounreay to Thurso for a walk around and some shopping, before retracing my route to my B&B - Armadale House, which, if you’re looking for someplace cheap and cheerful, I’d recommend. The house is a bit worn, but it’s clean, has character and the host, Detta is a lovely lady.

All in all, Day 1 was a great day, the weather was impeccable, and car very well behaved.

I didn’t really plan on ranting on so much, so i’ll type up and post Day 2 and 3 through the week probably!!
 

allandwf

Member
Messages
10,993
Excellent stuff. As an aside are you going to Glamis this weekend? I'm going to nip down tomorrow.
 

Needamaser

Member
Messages
1,499
When I click on the google maps link you put up it doesn't seem to tie in with the route you describe.
According to the link you headed straight from Dundee onto the A9 and then North.
Trying to work out where you actually went from your description but struggling to work out the 4 miles of almost single track road to Glenmorangie. The Distillery is on the A9 and coming from the South the only route I can think of that matches your description is the old road through invergordon itself and you would have been within 100m of an oil rig and then through Kildary but again you would join the A9 and have about 5/6 miles on the A9 to Glenmorangie.
Seen a couple of Maseratis in the area last couple of weeks. You got the weather for the trip!
 

Corranga

Member
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1,223
Excellent stuff. As an aside are you going to Glamis this weekend? I'm going to nip down tomorrow.

Sorry, only just saw this! I was on the Lotus stand for 2 days, great show as always, and fabulous weather. Only 2 F-cars in the show though, and no Maserati. I did see a silver GranTurismo leaving the car park on Sunday, and Erica brought my 4200 up on Saturday. Wish i'd remembered to have a walk through the car park!
 

Corranga

Member
Messages
1,223
Ok, so here we go. Day 2 - Getting to Gairloch.

Google says 5h30m - 196 miles.

This is the route:

https://goo.gl/maps/XAK2GpwJ1C82

I think this was my favourite day. More wide, well sighted roads with fantastic sweeping bends let the 4200 sing as a GT car, it felt really at home, though of course it’s happy to hustle along when things get a bit twistier.

Leaving my B&B I knew exactly where to head - my room overlooked a lovely s-bend :) Also, evidence that everything wasn't completely perfect - though that is the only rain I saw on the whole trip, and it was only blowing through for about 10 minutes!

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Over the course of the night, I spoke to the other guests, a friendly retired walker, who, since 1978 has walked all of the trails, he can from Land's End towards John O Groats. He was now filling in the gaps, walking roads / tracks where no official trails exist, aiming to reach Thurso the next day, and returning at the end of July to do Thurso to John O Groats. Very impressive.
There was also a family from Australia, father, mother, son and daughter in law. They were on a trip all over, Dubai, London, Edinburgh, Paris - but were up there specifically to do the NC500, albeit in a hire car. It's obviously gaining some momentum in the tourist industry!

Armadale - Bettyhill - Heilam - Durness
This stretch of road was sublime. I loved it. Lovely sweeping bends, dropping in and out of single track / single carriageway. I had a brief stop as I saw an old 3 series BMW and an MX-5 sitting in a layby looking to be in trouble. The BMW had suffered a blow out, though the pair were travelling together and went to a local garage who let them borrow a trolley jack and some tools to get the wheel off and back to him to repair the puncture. Since all was fine, I carried on. They commented that they did the run to Durness the previous evening and I was in for a treat, also commenting that the 420 was probably the ideal car to be doing it in. They were right. On top of the great road, the view was pretty spectacular too. I recall the run downhill towards Loch Eriboll being particularly beautiful, then following the edge of the Loch all the way around, equally the section around Ceannabeinne Beach is amazing, with views to match.

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I made a mistake on this road. I DIDN’T stop at Smoo Caves. I was talking to someone today who asked if I had, then told me it was spectacular, so I googled it and now I wish I had!
Anyway, on to Durness, and a quick stop for fuel at, well, a shed with 2 pumps around it. Pop your card into the machine, enter your pin and select pump 1 for petrol, or pump 2 for diesel. Certainly the most unusual fuel stop I've had, but perhaps more common around these parts.


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Durness - Rhiconich - Drumbeg - Clachtoll - Loch Assynt
The road straightens out for a bit, but quickly gets back to a lovely series of bends, until around Unapool where I turned off towards Drumbeg. The view there is spectacular, but the road is a little narrow and not well sighted. I had an ‘experience’ with a, erm, gentleman in a Ford Focus on single track around here, who stopped then kept edging closer and closer to me eventually getting out and pointing back, forcing me to reverse uphill to a passing place that didn’t exist, all the while him edging forward and forcing his way past. Put a bit of a damper on things, so I stopped for some photos.


drmbegIMG_9507s.jpg


Back on to the main road around Loch Assynt and things are feeling and looking great again.


Elphin - Ullapool - Auchindrean
I soon leave the A837 for the A835. The road names are so similar I have lost all idea of which I’m on and supposed to be on, thankfully al I have to do is drive the car and follow the route programmed into my SatNav! The road opens up, and is easy to drive. I turn on some music and appreciate the chill out time on this fast road, both windows wide open with 20 degree hot air blowing in. This is what Maserati ownership is all about.


A832 to Gairloch
I’ve driven this road before (in the opposite direction) and remember it being good. It starts off like you’re driving through a forest, then you’re driving through bays with sandy beaches, then back among rocks like you’re up in the mountains, again, the sort of road that seems to suit the Maserati, and then into Gairloch where I set upon trying to get in contact with my wife, struggling with mobile signal - though not with the GiffGaff sim in the car which was working perfectly happily (thanks to fellow SM user for suggesting it in another thread!) and 4 nights at Gairloch Sands campsite. The campsite is basically on the beach, with just the sand dunes between our tent and the sea.

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Before leaving, I'd replaced the battery in the Maserati as it went dead within a couple of days - usually it's on the CTEK all the time. When I checked the CTEK indicator on the morning of Day 2, it was amber, indicating lower charge than I'd expect from a car that was used all the previous day. There is obviously a drain on the battery, probably from the tracker - that'll need sorted when I get back home - for now, the CTEK is plugged into my mother in law's camper hook up that I spent the past couple of weeks fitting. I think we looks a little out of place between the caravans, Volvos and 4x4s...

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For the next 4 nights, my tent (to the right of the photo) was my home, and the Maserati was the family car, transporting myself, my wife, my daughter and my mother in law around Wester Ross, from Pony trekking to the local shop for some lorne and eggs! During my stay, I filled up at the petrol station in Gairloch. The driver of the TT S in front came over, he too was doing the NC500, and complimenting my car and we had a quick chat about the cars.

Chris
 

Davidc

Member
Messages
184
Great write up Chris and reminds me that I must plan to do the NC500. I keep thinking about it for some time but thats as far as I get. Being in Aberdeenshire, its on my doorstep and a crime not to check it out. Your post has prompted me to get my finger out and plan something before every other bugger clogs up the roads up there!