Not a happy car
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Duncanofengland
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Sorry, I thought that the thread was about a 3200. At least that's one (or two) fewer things to go wrong!
Zep
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That it is doing it only at higher engine speeds still points to some sort of blockage. Allan’s test would be a good one.
The only place crankcase pressure can come from is blow by past the rings and the speed with which it went from fine to smokey.
Another thing to do would be to disconnect the breather from the inlet and rig up a bottle to catch the oil in. Then see if you still get smoke when you run it up. If you do, it’s something more serious.
The last thing is to do a compression and leak down test. You might (I stress might) have a broken piston ring. This will confirm.
The only place crankcase pressure can come from is blow by past the rings and the speed with which it went from fine to smokey.
Another thing to do would be to disconnect the breather from the inlet and rig up a bottle to catch the oil in. Then see if you still get smoke when you run it up. If you do, it’s something more serious.
The last thing is to do a compression and leak down test. You might (I stress might) have a broken piston ring. This will confirm.
Gp79
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As Zep stated it must be crankcase pressure.
But what is oil level at when hot and engine running?
Do the compression test on each cylinder or leak down test before changing any other parts.
I have seen a wet sump engine eject oil from the dipstick tube due to blow by the rings / worn engine, that was a marine diesel 240hp Yanmar.
But what is oil level at when hot and engine running?
Do the compression test on each cylinder or leak down test before changing any other parts.
I have seen a wet sump engine eject oil from the dipstick tube due to blow by the rings / worn engine, that was a marine diesel 240hp Yanmar.
I reckon a comp test is next...Why run the engine if you suspect a ring ? The you can do the Porsche thing and do a borescope inspection, depending what you find ??!?
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jasst
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Ok, finally grown a pair and started on this, all plugs removed, points to note:- all were swimming in oil at the top, all bar 2 were only finger tight!!!! Don't know what they should be torque to, but they weren't, compression test scuppered as don't have correct size one.
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The oil on the spark plugs it will be due to an oil leak from your rocker cover spark plug seals , you will need to replace the 8 spark plug seals and rocker cover seals .
Marios
Marios
jasst
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Weaping rocker cover gaskets was on my 'to do' list, as is a refurb of the crackle finish of the covers, yes oil has come from top, as Marios says spark plug seals, don't know if this has any relevance to the main issue though, but am slightly worried about the fact the plugs were only finger tight.
alfatwo
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Swedish Paul
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How much to do the rocker cover/spark plug gaskets?
mjheathcote
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I would be more worried if the plugs had come loose due to aluminium thread striping!
Bung some new plugs in tightened correctly and see if that makes any difference.
jasst
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I shall be doing it myself, don't know cost of gaskets yet
FIFTY
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I got mine from superperformance. The job is relatively easy but just time consuming. Most difficult part is the RH side (drivers side in UK) where there is **** all space to get the secondary air system gubins off (two upside down allen key bolts holding the valve in place)
I followed Craig Waterman's how to and I feel as though he missed one step to make the above point a little easier - unfasten the cooling system header tank and move it out of the way, without doing this it is pretty much impossible to get that valve slackened off.
I followed Craig Waterman's how to and I feel as though he missed one step to make the above point a little easier - unfasten the cooling system header tank and move it out of the way, without doing this it is pretty much impossible to get that valve slackened off.