Gransport heater control problem.

[NormalDad]

Hi all, after a year of searching and reading your great advice on this forum I took the plunge and bought a 2005 Gransport about a month ago. I've been grinning ever since but today I experienced my first electrical gremlin. Driving in the heavy rain I noticed a series of problems with the heater and the heated rear screen. It started with the rear screen turning itself on and off at random intervals, then the heater started playing up switching between econ and recirc all by itself, then when you pushed the recirc button the heated rear screen came on, and finally it started blowing hot air despite being set to low. I'm thinking that seeing as this is the first time I have driven the car in the rain it might have been water getting into the controls somehow. Has anybody else experienced anything similar and do you have any suggestions for a fix?

 

[Tinman]

I had a similar problem with the fan on my 4200CC. Sometimes it would come on then sometimes not. There are several threads on here about it. I found I had water in the passenger footwell and it was caused by leaves blocking the vent but I don't remember which specifically. May have been near the pollen filter. It was cleaned out and I haven't had the problem with water in the footwell since though occasionally the fan doesn't come on but that's normally remedied by 'jiggling' the cables underneath the glove box. Theres quite a large connector block under there and moving it normally does the trick.

 

[CatmanV2]

Certainly sounds like the blocked pollen filter / blower box problem. Normaldad, check for dampness in the footwell, and if it's wet get sorted ASAP. Water dripping on those areas can get expensive.

C

 

[outrun]

It is also possible to completely reset the air con unit switches. It runs a diagnostic but opening and closing all the vents etc etc then sets to the proper point. Can't remember how you do it but someone will come along shortly to let you know or you could search the threads. Worth a try as it's free of course!

 

[CatmanV2]

It is also possible to completely reset the air con unit switches. It runs a diagnostic but opening and closing all the vents etc etc then sets to the proper point. Can't remember how you do it but someone will come along shortly to let you know or you could search the threads. Worth a try as it's free of course!

Hold down the recirc and econ bottons until the dash display flashes if memory serves. There may be a more complex one as well.

Won't have anything to do with the heated rear screen, however

C

 

[safrane]

As above put you need to do this without the engine running...but ignition on.

 

[CatmanV2]

As above put you need to do this without the engine running...but ignition on.

Pretty sure I've done it with the engine running, but I may be imagining things (again). Usually my imagination is slightly more exciting

C

 

[NormalDad]

Thanks for the replies. I've had a chance to look at it now and both footwells are damp. I checked the drain hose and the rubber grommet that goes through the floor and both are clean and free of debris. I then took the cover off below the windscreen, removed the cover over the heater air intake and poured in a small amount of water - it came pouring out of the fan housing into the passenger footwell, right above all the relays and fuses, but not a drip out of the drain hose. It was leaking from just about every joint in the part of the fan housing that sits behind the glove box. This part of the fan housing is slightly lower than where the drain hose exits the housing so the water didn't even get to the drain hose. Any ideas? I'm wondering whether this part should be water tight.

 

[CatmanV2]

Yes, it rather should be water tight. Interesting, and not in a good way.

Silicone, perhaps?

C

 

[NormalDad]

Anybody know whether it is possible to get this part of the fan housing out without removing the dashboard?

 

[CatmanV2]

I *think* the answer to that is no. Someone was trying to get the fan out recently, and I think he struggled.

I stand to be corrected, but if you do need to get the dash out, might well be worth checking the matrix *very* carefully as they tend to leak after a while, and it would be a real pain to have to get the dash out again to do the matrix.

In fact, for the £50 for a new matrix (Alfa 166 part) I'd replace it if you're in there.

C

 

[safrane]

I'm pretty sure this same question was posed last month...I think it's a dash out job. There is however a 'How To' posted on here by Paul3200