Ghibli II winter works

spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
It's actually more complicated than that, but to answer your question:

So you are building a full rollcage into the shell :)

Even an Hungarian Shamal!!

Yes, it even got a separate article: https://totalcar.hu/magazin/szerelem/2021/12/05/maserati-shamal-v8-biturbo-1992/

The 6 speed Getrag box does have a noisy lay shaft bearing, mine has done it for years. Noise goes away when clutch pedal is pressed down.

That's exactly the case, and that's why I'm planning to put back the old gearbox.

If you look on the internet it is a known issue and even rebuilding the box doesn't always fix the problem, it causes no mechanical problems just an annoying noise.

Yeah, but I still can't stand it :)
 

alpa

Member
Messages
169
I don't see what you expect from a gearbox change. Both Getrag and ZF have a noisy idle. It's not the gearbox, it's a loose clutch bearing.
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
It can't be the clutch bearing. I've put in a new one. Actually a second one, because I was thinking the same.
 

alpa

Member
Messages
169
It can. The bearing has a play on the axle. As I said both Getrag and ZF are noisy.
Check 15 years old messages on BiturboZentrum, same problem described.
 

del mar 2

Member
Messages
212
isnt that the difference in the way both make a noise ?

I Was under the impression that when the clutch pedal was pushed to the floor if it made a noise it was clutch bearing

if the noise stopped when you push the clutch pedal down it was the gear box.

The gearbox bearing is under no "pressure" with the clutch pedal NOT pressed so it rattles, when you press the pedal it starts to put load on it and it goes away ??
 

stormrider123

New Member
Messages
16
Ok thanks, I will let the machine shop work this out.

Meanwhile the front shocks were also assembled. This was much harder than the rear ones. It's actually very hard to do with simple spring compressors. I've spent hours using 4 compressors (terrified that they will break), but even even then the result was not OK and I've nicked the springs and the shocks (since then already repainted, again) despite using protection everywhere.

There are two difficulties:
1. The shocks have an internal return spring pulling back the shaft. To retain it in the upper position a special clamping tool is needed which doesn't mark the shaft.
2. The Cup springs are progressive so even if you manage to fully compress them to fit, the compressors will get stuck between the upper coils.

So I just took it to professional suspension shop, yet even for them this wasn't a walk in the park (there is the cable for the servo motor too which has to be taken care of)

Small steps, but slowly getting there.

View attachment 49759

View attachment 49760

I'm sorry going to a 2018 topic. I'm researching Ghiblis II for data in order to code the most authentic simulation possible. I tried looking for those Eibach spring codes, but as we some other projects (mines are always 80s-90s), it seems Eibach changed their coding sometime around the 2000s and I can't find any info on those springs.

Front: Eibach 40 92 36.66.02.333
Rear: Eibach 39 95 36.70.02.334

Does anyone knows how to understand these old codes? They are probably something like spring rate/OD/ID/Free Lenght..
If not, would some kind soul please measure the wire diameters and the compressed lenghts as fitted to a car?

Thanks