Experts on garage construction

[VMSRTI]

Both some photos.

yes I know it's a mess....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/catmanv2/sets/72157633029251782/

Cheers

C

C, I see you have good taste in cars AND BBQ's !

 

[CatmanV2]

Ahh the Grill of Manliness, as we call it.

A fine thing, indeed. First time I fired it up, the manual said something to the effect 'it may be a bit hotter then normal as all the internal surfaces are clean and shiny'

600F The Thermometer was pinned to the end stop. Makes spatchcock chicken to die for

C

 

[Mr.Cambio]

I really have no idea how you built homes/garages etc in the UK, but would it be possible to dig the floor?If yes, how deep? In Greece we have earthquakes, so buildings are seated much lower than the ground level.

An important question is, if you modify those "A" as Miles mentioned, will the new roof handle with possible strong winds?

 

[CatmanV2]

We don't get earthquakes

I doubt the garage floor is very thick, in honesty, but the foundations may be I guess.

All good fun

C

 

[hodroyd]

You would not need to increase the height in the whole roof section would you..?? If you could lift enough to get just enough space for the car lower window line upwards, you would not need to lift the whole section of the garage, just the section above the ramp and car roof section.
Nikos,
In the UK we have to put the foundations on bedrock, these can be at whatever depth is required, usually about 1 metre, Digging down and making a pit is an option, but I used to have one of these and unless it is fully lined you can get water ingress, so you would have to put in a drain below the 1m level, sufficient to drain off. Anything can be done but at what price is the question..??

 

[CatmanV2]

Robert, no. You'd only have to do the first 5m or so, although I have no idea how you'd blend it to the rear roof section. I guess most of the same issues would apply. Also the wall with the door in it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/catmanv2/8569745942/in/set-72157633029251782/
is shared with the house.

C

 

[dunnah01]

The solution I tried to describe earlier was this:



You install the purlins supported at their ends and then remove the King Post and Ties

Probably no clearaer really

 

[2b1ask1]

A sensible solution Dunnah, needn't be full length just the section where the extra headroom is required, then the purlins could be supported/tied to the existing structure yes?

 

[CatmanV2]

Dunnah, that makes it perfectly clear, thanks!

Wouldn't some more ties be an improvement as well?

Cheers

C

 

[hodroyd]

Just thinking about my quad garage, I built it without main King Posts so that I could have a central walkway and storage through the roof void. I can't remember what that type is called now, but if you imagine sort of 2 King Posts, one at either side, it leaves the central area quite clear. I am not sure if you would have to use extra bracing, I would imagine you would because you would have to cut out the centre sections of cross timbers.

 

[Mr.Cambio]

Small note to Dunnah, are you having strong winds up there? All this planking is there to keep the roof stable under strong wind. At least the tie described in your autocad.

 

[CatmanV2]

Thanks Robert. Mine is only single width so I need the central bit.

Sounds like a combination of solutions is coming together.

Purlins running the length of the increased height section (about 4m) together with perhaps ties raised from their existing position by 50cm and shorter king posts?
C

 

[hodroyd]

C,
That might work. If you speak to a roof truss manufacturer, they may come up with a simple solution for you. How about the Raised Tie type, would that work??
Cheers
R

 

[dunnah01]

All this planking is there to keep the roof stable under strong wind

Not really true to be hoest - the timber planks are all there to keep the weight of the trusses down to make them as cost effective as possible. The trusses are all triangulated to create a load path from the roof tiles through the timbers and into the garage walls at the end of each truss. If you simply removed the king post and tie the roof would fall down under it's self weight.
The timber sizes are made as small as possible to keep costs as low as possible but by clever design they can resist all the tensile, compressive, shear and bending stresses required under all loads (or actions as they are called nowadays) including self weight, a bit of live load if necessary for maintenance, wind (inc. uplift) & snow.
If the support is provided by purlins spanning the other way to the trusses (ie supported on the 'gable' ends of the garage) then they have to carry far more load than the individual roof trusses currently being used. It is this extra load that requires the purlins to be much bigger in cross section and ultimately may require the wall to be gable end (or lintel over garage door in reality) to be strengthened to carry these loads.
My day job is heavy Civil engineering so you'd need somebody with a decimal point on their calculator to get an efficient design for this lighter engineering problem but the principles are the same.

 

[CatmanV2]

Robert, raised tie would be exactly what I was thinking.

Ball park quote on t'interweb comes in at about £300 (assuming my best guess at dimensions and centres)! Clearly some poor sod will have to fit them, but that's a promising start.

My this place is just like the good old days

C