DTC codes and CEL illuminated !

Gp79

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1,398
Tow eye threads corroded due to lack of use - hopefully!

I ran an M16 x 2 tap down mine to clear it so it can be used
 

Gp79

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1,398
Doing a few jobs on mine, here is one earth I can find, o/s by bell housing.

Positive is fed from n/s
 

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Zep

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9,233
Is there a towing eye fixing on the front of these cars..?

Driver’s side, through the lower valence.. can’t tell if it’s threaded, ( it bloody needs one !:D)


Are you sure Zep ?
What you’re saying suggests there is only one sensor ? It measures fan function and is placed close by...?
Do you know which bank is which ? Drivers side looks corroded. Other side clean as a whistle..!

No solenoid clicking.. she just doesn’t have the juice.. apparently !

So no getting to the starter from above then..?

Where’s the factory earth strap ?
What are the potential risks of creating another ?

Recent work was major 4 yr service if you are familiar .
Other work included Coolant temp sensor replaced... exhaust hangars, gear change service ( manual) Nothing startling or surprising....

No, there are two sensors, but if the fault is a hole in the pipe then both sensors will have no pressure because it will be leaking out before it reaches the valve.

It seems unlikely to me that the battery will have the juice to light everything up but then not even cause the solenoid to click. Also the earth start would fail slowly so it would crank slowly for a long time and then fail to start. There is a point before tries to drive the gear into the flywheel where is shouldn't take much current to do it. I think there is a fuse of a sticky relay. I would have a good look at fuse 13 and relay 7.
 

TimR

Member
Messages
2,731
I wonder if this getting lost in translation...?

Starter will crank if I lean on the key....
It turns extremely slowly though....


I’m pulling the plugs to see what no compression reveals...

Result- same slow starter...
Battery returns to green A-ok on tender after ten minutes

Irony for me is I upsized the battery to eliminate possible electrical gremlins re NIT malfunction...
Ever since I’ve had fuel flap release issu, CEL and a starter motor issue...
Should have left well alone..!
 
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CatmanV2

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48,735
If it's still slow with no compression, it surely must be either the starter kaout or a problem supplying the current under load

C
 

TimR

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Messages
2,731
If it's still slow with no compression, it surely must be either the starter kaout or a problem supplying the current under load

C
Yes sir...!
Motor screwed, or more likely, fragile Italian wiring issue :eek:

Time for a bike ride...! ;)
 

CatmanV2

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48,735
My money's still on the earth, not withstanding the estimable Zep (who is a far better engineer than I ever will be)

C
 

Moz1000

Member
Messages
820
I would also suggest the engine earth strap, but I don't know where it is. Another possibility is the cut out device having gone high impedance. It's located under the 12v outlet in the boot, and isolates the battery from the chassis if there's a shunt. If it's gone resistive then when a high current is drawn it'll drop volts. Just a suggestion. You would need to bypass it to prove this.
Moz
 

Zep

Moderator
Messages
9,233
I wonder if this getting lost in translation...?

Starter will crank if I lean on the key....
It turns extremely slowly though....


I’m pulling the plugs to see what no compression reveals...

Result- same slow starter...
Battery returns to green A-ok on tender after ten minutes

Irony for me is I upsized the battery to eliminate possible electrical gremlins re NIT malfunction...
Ever since I’ve had fuel flap release issu, CEL and a starter motor issue...
Should have left well alone..!

Yes it is. I withdraw the comment about the fuses and relays!

Get someone to crack it while you measure the voltage. If the voltage collapses it’s the battery, if it stays fairly high (10v +) it’s something else.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,735
Yes it is. I withdraw the comment about the fuses and relays!

Get someone to crack it while you measure the voltage. If the voltage collapses it’s the battery, if it stays fairly high (10v +) it’s something else.

'Crank' I assume :) . (Not you, Zep)

C
 

TimR

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Messages
2,731
Is there any reason I should NOT try jump starting the car...?

Grtzzz...!

Edit- forget it. This is going on the low loader thread..!
 
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TimR

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2,731
The problem lies with the alternator.. Locked solid ! Remove the pulley and it turns over fine !!
Not sure how far I can drive it without an alternator but tempted to drive it home and do the fix myself..
Will it drive wothout an alternator..? Perhaps it has too many demands on the electrical circuit to manage it ?

Apparently its inside the V, under the plenum chamber an' all?
Is it an involved process to get at anyone care to tell me ?

Edit- ha ha... driving with power steering would have difficult to say the least....:D
 
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FIFTY

Member
Messages
3,100
Where is the car? Can you not get it recovered (if you are covered)? If not then recovery is £100-150 where you can take off the plenum in the comfort of your own workshop... apparently you need to replace all the gaskets as you go along.