DTC codes and CEL illuminated !

T

TimR

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4200...facelift, manual..
Not done 2K miles since picking the car up from a major service at McGrath Maserati...Im seeing the CEL


Can I get some input...?

P0492-secondary air injection ( insufficient flow bank2)
Please comment. Isn't this an emissions thing ? Any insights much appreciated...


P1540- Im afraid I dont have any way to understand this code from the diagnostic aid I have...
Again, any insights , descriptions or pointers appreciated !

I'd like to go ahead and clear them with a reset but would feel better knowing what they are....?

Grtzzz...!

Tim
 
CatmanV2

CatmanV2

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P0492: Secondary air system injects air into the cats on start up to get them up to temp faster. It sounds like a hairdryer for the first 30-45 seconds of a cold start. No idea if this will be an MOT fail but my understanding is that the pipes can corrode on the 4200. That will let the air that should be going to the cats out and thus insufficient flow.

P1540 might be low A/C but seems it's a code that might be used in manufacturer specific context, sorry :(

C
 
FIFTY

FIFTY

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3,100
As C said on P0492, check the pipes running along the top front of the engine linking into the top of the cam covers. You might need to take off the MAF so you can check all of it.
 
T

TimR

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I dont believe this car- I left the diag box ( Bluetooth/WiFi dongle) in the OBD port for maybe two hours.. With ignition off, it’s not active..! Now the battery, brand spanking new last week, is completely lunched...!
Thanx for the replies.. Not sure the sudden battery drain makes good sense, or related to P1540 DTC somehow..? ( air con serviced with McGrath- so v. recent...)

Edit- I meant to... which is bnk2 ?
 
CatmanV2

CatmanV2

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OBD port is always live........
I *think* bank 2 is RHS when you look from the front, but don't quote me.

C
 
T

TimR

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So I go to the car, battery reads good to go after 17-19 hrs on tender but she won’t have it.
Refuses to turn the crank over beyond a half turn even... acts like the battery is too weak or flat .

Any ideas what causes this ? Battery 740ccA & 77Ah brand new last week..!

Grtzzz.....!
 
Wanderer

Wanderer

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5,791
Starter motor bad? What happens if you try to crank with the headlights on? If they go totally dim it’s battery I reckon, if not, starter or worse God forbid
 
T

TimR

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No idea- can’t see the lights when I’m turning the key..
Battery brand new, fully charged..!

Where is my starter relay..?


Worse how out of interest...?
 
Last edited:
T

TimR

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It seems most unlikely both the batteries I have from this car are goosed at this point...
Both say A-Ok in the tender but neither seem to have the juice to turn the starter motor very far...
I found a slightly dodgy fuse. I’m without internet (Plusnet haven’t been able to sort it inside a week now) or I d post s pic. It’s not fried but it’s not right either....Anyway. Replacing it didn’t sort it . ( located in the fuse board on the firewall)
So I may be looking at a starter problem.. least. I’d go there but it looks like buried under plenum and electrical gubbins at the back of the engine bay. Is this about where it is...?

Grtzzzz....!
 

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CatmanV2

CatmanV2

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48,730
FIrst thing disconnect the battery for 20 minutes. While that's happening check all the connectors on the top of it. Sometimes they can work loose.

Next place I'd be looking at is the ignition switch.

Turn the ignition on: Do you get any lights on the dash?

C
 
T

TimR

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Ok.. so been through all those in the boot, under the hood, and the fuses on the firewall.
Checked the positive cabling .
Tried both batteries, both return the same sluggish response from the starter (apparently, the starters are not prone to failure like the 3200 unit used) I seriously doubt battery drain at this time.
All lights come up on the dash, then go out. Turn the key...barely stirs the starter ?

Ignition switch..?
 
CatmanV2

CatmanV2

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48,730
Could be. Or earth strap to the engine is another one that's been known to be an issue. If you have a jump cable you could try (at your own risk) using it to make another earth from the engine block to the car body and try cranking.

Would be worth getting the batteries checked as well (cheap and simple) What did you use to charge them back up? If you totally killed them then used a dumb charger they may still be unable to deliver current.

C
 
T

TimR

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Yeah, no !
Replaced a healthy 60Ah battery because it was small, despite it started the car fine in the months Ive owned it...
A brand new 77Ah unit ( Exide ) charged off the vehicle initially using C-Tek smart charger. Put it in the car.. worked a treat!
Car is always on C-Tek tender when parked up..( small battery kept topped up with smart charger- also tried in the vehicle to same affect, as mentioned, in case the new 77Ah unit was s duff? )
Isolation switch was off as the C-Tek recharged the larger battery in the car last night & yesterday, some 15+ hrs. It was green for go ! Still barely registers a current at the starter ! Same for both.
Cranking registers way low voltage.
That fuse is partially melted.. That’s a spike if current but didn’t blow. It’s nextvto the positive cabling as it enters the engine bay...


I do worry about frying the ECU or something silly with shorting earths why..

It could be s starter.. sounds typical of dislodged magnets or similar..?
It’s not easily checked though...:p
 
Gp79

Gp79

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1,398
What was done at the recent service? worth starting here incase anything was left loose / not put back correctly.

The starter is a real pain to access, one manifold off to remove the heat shield then you can actually see it, so last resort in my opinion.

Check all connections at the battery are tight and the ones in engine bay, there are high current connections on near side bulkhead plus earth to body underneath
 
Zep

Zep

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Just a couple of potentially unhelpful points.

The secondary air system fan is connected to both banks via a manifold. If there is a hole in the pipe both sides will show low pressure.

Lead acid batteries can collapse if they are run completely flat as the chemistry can not recover, but if they take a charge this is probably not it. For the starter do you get any clicking when you go to crank? Does it click once and then not turn over? If so are the battery terminals good and tight?

The partially melted fuse could well be because it tried to crank with a very low battery voltage.
 
T

TimR

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Is there a towing eye fixing on the front of these cars..?

Driver’s side, through the lower valence.. can’t tell if it’s threaded, ( it bloody needs one !:D)


Are you sure Zep ?
What you’re saying suggests there is only one sensor ? It measures fan function and is placed close by...?
Do you know which bank is which ? Drivers side looks corroded. Other side clean as a whistle..!

No solenoid clicking.. she just doesn’t have the juice.. apparently !

So no getting to the starter from above then..?

Where’s the factory earth strap ?
What are the potential risks of creating another ?

Recent work was major 4 yr service if you are familiar .
Other work included Coolant temp sensor replaced... exhaust hangars, gear change service ( manual) Nothing startling or surprising....
 
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